Knotting Hill Kitchen Cart

What We Like About This Kitchen Cart
Form and function combine in the Knotting Hill Kitchen Cart. This kitchen cart is made of a fine hardwood with an attractive oil finish and white lacquered base. It offers two open slatted shelves and a removable shelf in the enclosed cabinet. In addition, this cart has a large utensil drawer and towel bar. This cart is equipped with locking caster wheels so you can easily move it or lock it into place.

About Catskill Craftsmen
For over 60 years, Catskill Craftsmen has provided customers with high-quality, domestic, hardwood ready-to-assemble products. Located in Stamford, New York, Catskill Craftsmen manufactures kitchen carts, islands, work centers, gourmet butcher block chopping blocks, cutting boards, hardwood cabinets, furniture, book carts, and racks. Catskill Craftsmen is recognized as the nation's leading manufacturer of premium wooden products.

CARE & CLEANING

Q – Should I use my table top for cutting and chopping?

A – Most of our customers do not since cuts and scratches somewhat mar the beauty of the top. Most people use a cutting board or chopping block placed on the top. However, the top is made for chopping and cutting, and scratches can be removed by sanding with high grit sandpaper.

Q – Can I prepare raw food on my unit top or cutting board, or should I use a plastic cutting board for food safety?

A– Recent studies at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, Food Research Institute, prove that wood is safer for food preparation than poly or glass. Extensive tests show that all sorts of bacterium, including salmonella, disappear quickly on wood, whereas the same bacterium continue to live and thrive on plastic. These tests confirm that the idea of plastic being more hygienic than wood is a perception that is flat wrong and is due mostly to advertising. Nonetheless, always clean your wooden cutting board surface with soapy water, making sure to remove any food particles. Dry immediately!!

Do not soak or put cutting boards in the dishwasher!

Q – What kind of oil should I use on my table? How often?

A - We recommend Catskill’s Original Butcher Block Oil. Drug store mineral oil can also be effective in sealing wood. You should oil all wooden / veneer parts, inside and outside, including the bottom of the cart top, but especially the cart top and edges, where use and cleaning dry the wood out the most.
“Catskill’s Original Butcher Block Oil” is a mixture of FDA approved ingredients of which the base is highly refined linseed oil with drying agents added. These additions as well as the refined oil allow for better penetration of the wood and faster drying. The linseed oil actually hardens within the wood for lasting protection.

Mineral Oil enhances the color of the wood and gives short-term protection. However, mineral oil imparts little lasting protection to your table. Also, be careful in selecting mineral oil to choose a non-toxic of FDA approved mineral oil. This is found at your drugstore or supermarket.

Boiled Linseed Oil is not recommended, since it is not highly refined and often leaves a tacky surface.

Vegetable Oil – This is as satisfactory to use as mineral oil and is normally readily available. However, as mineral oil, provides only nominal protection for your table.

If you use Catskill’s Original Butcher Block Oil or other linseed oil based products, the old adage of once a week for the first month and once a month for the first year would be proper. After this point your table will have developed a rich golden glow. From our experience we have found that once a month for the first few months is sufficient. After this point the wood is totally sealed and needs little further protection. Write the factory for extra Fair Oil coupons. Be sure to oil all wooden parts.

CAUTION: Rags with linseed oil are extremely flammable and can self ignite – washing rags dose not eliminate this danger – Place rags in water and place outside the house until final disposal.

Q – How do you remove a ding, dig or scratch from the top?

A – For small scratches or dings the easiest way is to take a little water and put it on the ding or scratch. Wait a few minutes, then take a metal cap such as a bottle cap and place it over the water. Take your iron, on cotton setting (high), and place the tip on the metal cap. This will boil the water in the wood and rise the grain. Remove cap, let dry, and lightly sand with fine grit paper with the grain to remove raised grain and scratches. For deep scratches you may have to repeat process. For deep dents drive a series of ¼ deep holes with a needle into dent to allow the water to penetrate deeper. You can also iron over a damp cloth. Deep holes or scratches, not on the top, may be filled with colored wax sticks available at any hardware or paint store. Deep holes in top can be patched with a resin or plastic colored stick which is melted into the hole, scraped flat with a single edge razor blade and sanded with the grain. Darker colored sticks blend in better then very light colors. These darker colors look like mineral streaks.
Q. – I have small end checks or slight separations of the joints along the edge of the top. How can I correct this?

A. – This is caused by excessive loss of moisture due to the dry atmosphere, etc. Use an equal mixture of mineral oil and melted paraffin on area, making sure paraffin fills the small cracks. Follow package instructions when melting paraffin – use a double boiler or microwave, as paraffin is flammable! You can also use beeswax.

Q. – How do I clean my butcher-block top? Remove dough? Wax? Stains? Cigarette burns? Ink spots?

A. – Most spills are easily wiped clean with damp sponge or cloth. Never soak or let water stand on your table for long periods of time as water effects the grain and even though the glue is water-resistant, it is not waterproof. Be sure to clean your top well with a mild detergent, rinsing it well with a damp sponge and toweling dry before applying new oil.
To remove dough, use a little salt on a sponge and rube with the grain or try using a plastic ice scrapper.
To remove wax and gum, make it brittle with an ice pack. When the deposit hardens, use your fingernail or ice scrapper to remove.
Your top shouldn’t stain very easily, but to remove glass rings or white spots, use extra fine sand paper or No. 00 steel wool moistened with linseed oil and sand with the grain. Rings should come out when reoiled.
Burns should be sanded out if possible, again, sanding with the grain. Deep burns should be scrapped out with a sharp rounded edge blade, then feather sand and reoil.
Grease spots are removed using a little bit of mineral spirits – use sparingly! After application with a small brush, soak up excess with clean cloth, sand lightly or put salt over area treated to absorb any residue. Then take a little water, mild detergent and clean area.

WARNING – Whatever the stain, try sanding with (100+ grit, fine grit) the grain first since your top is tough and chances are the stain doesn’t go very deep because of the close grain. If you must resort to cleaners, follow the directions on the container, be careful, use sparingly on the top and make sure all residue is sanded and washed clean before placing food on top!! Keep these cleaners out of the reach of children! DO NOT USE SOLVENTS, PAINT THINNERS, OR BLEACH!!